Niacinamide is a skincare ingredient that has been making big waves in the industry these past few years. Featured on countless products, raved about by skincare bloggers the world over, and hyped up by those who have tried it, it’s easy to see why people would want to try it.
But hyped-up ingredients have come and gone before. Does niacinamide have what it takes to become a staple in our beauty routines? Let’s see if research and medicine supports the positive anecdotal evidence on this exciting ingredient.
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, may sound like a fancy new chemical, but it’s actually something we are all familiar with and have encountered--and eaten!--before. This compound is the water-soluble version of Vitamin B3, which is found in the diet through yeast, meat, nuts, leafy vegetables, coffee, cereal, and tea. If you take multivitamins or supplements, you get a good amount of this everyday!
Niacinamide is essential to the proper functioning of our bodies. Each and every cell in our body needs the coenzymes NAD and NADPH--and the “N” in those terms stand for nicotinamide, a synonym of niacinamide. These co enzymes catalyze a whole host of reactions: from driving energy metabolism to synthesizing nucleic acids, from regulating biochemical signalling pathways to protecting the cells from oxidative damage.
Given these functions, it’s easy to see why the body would benefit from niacinamide. In fact, it’s so important that not having enough of it can cause a fatal disease called pellagra. The 3 D’s of pellagra are: diarrhea, dermatitis, and dementia. Thankfully, prevention and cure is pretty easy. Just provide a good source of Vitamin B3!
From the disease process of pellage, we know that low levels of Vitamin B3 cause dry, scaly, inflamed skin. Logically, that would mean that providing the appropriate levels of Vitamin B3 would result in well-moisturized, supply, and healthy skin, right? This is exactly why niacinamide has become a go-to ingredient for many cosmeceutical products.
But before you go shopping for new skincare, it’s important to know that there are many versions of Vitamin B3 derivatives. These may sound similar, but they may have different effects. Aside from niacinamide aka nicotinamide, you may encounter products that have niacin aka nicotinic acid. The latter does not have the amide group in the molecular structure (or the name!). Niacin or nicotinic acid cause dilation of blood vessels and skin irritation, which translates to red, itchy skin. So read the label carefully before you purchase!
What are the benefits of niacinamide?
Improves skin texture and appearance
As we grow older, our skin is no longer as effective in retaining moisture and producing structural proteins that keep our skin supple and young-looking. One of the mechanisms behind these processes is the depletion of NAD and NADH in ageing skin cells.
Topical niacinamide has been shown to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dry skin by directly providing the building blocks for NAD and NADH. As evidenced by scientific research, niacinamide ups the production of collagen and ceramides and fuels the production of lipids of the cell membrane. Our skin cells are re-energized to perform their functions more efficiently. With that extra support from these structural proteins, our skin barrier is strengthened. The synthesized lipids shore up the cell membrane and make it more resistant to damage. These all result in decreased transepidermal water loss and increased skin elasticity, which manifests as healthy, hydrated skin.
Helps control inflammation
Inflamed, angry skin does not only cause discomfort, pain, and itchiness, it also makes us feel conscious about our appearance. There are some studies that have shown the effectiveness of niacinamide in improving inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, particularly when the patient’s skin cannot tolerate stronger active ingredients. Niacinamide-containing moisturizers have helped people who suffer from rosacea by reducing redness, dryness, and reducing the skin reactivity.
Evens out the skin tone
An overproduction of melanin in small areas of the skin can be caused by sun damage or as a result of inflammation and skin damage. Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes, the cells that create it, to keratinocytes, the cells that are found near the surface of the skin. This results in noticeable reduction in hyperpigmentation over time, leaving you with a clear complexion.
Helps minimize UV damage
The ultraviolet rays of the sun cause an increase in reactive oxygen species that can harm our skin cells. Sunscreen and other sun protection measures are key to protecting the skin against further UV damage, but if you want something to help repair existing damage, then niacinamide is a good addition to your routine. Studies show that it can minimize photo immunosuppressive and photo carcinogenic effects. Long-term use has been associated with a reduction in actinic keratoses, which are often precursors to skin cancer.
Conclusion
Niacinamide is a cosmeceutical ingredient that deserves the hype. As always, when trying on a new product, make sure to do a spot test to test for reactivity. If you have existing skin conditions, consult your dermatologist first before making the leap. Hopefully, the anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin repairing abilities of niacinamide will work on your skin, as it has done on so many others!
This content is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical advice.
Resources:
https://dermnetnz.org/topics/nicotinamide/
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/jppr.1250
https://cdn.mdedge.com/files/s3fs-public/Document/September-2017/019070479.pdf
