For many acne sufferers, make-up is a necessary evil. As much as we have been told that make-up can cause acne, we simply cannot do without it. Our self-esteem is weakened with every new zit, and makeup has become our armor. If it gives us a little more confidence as we make our way into the world, we argue that it’s worth it.
But it’s a catch-22. Acne can be exacerbated by cosmetics because of their ability to clog pores. It’s so prevalent that there’s an actual medical term for it: acne cosmetica. It represents the vicious cycle we’re all familiar with: the more we cover up our breakouts with make-up, the more likely make-up will cause our breakouts.
The obvious solution is to go cold-turkey on cosmetics. But let’s face it, very few people who suffer from acne can stomach leaving those angry red blotches bare for all the world to see.
Hence, the need for a compromise. There are evidence-based and dermatologist-approved ways to make this necessary evil less...evil. If you pine for the day when you can go makeup-free and still walk with your head held high, then you might want to consider making some changes to your cosmetics routine.
We list five makeup habits that you can start today!
Read the ingredient list
Some products are more likely to cause acne than others. And the best way to tell is by turning it over and checking the ingredient list.
Though we may react to products in different ways, there are ingredients that are scientifically proven to clog pores more readily than others. These are called “comedogenic” ingredients, so called for because of its ability to produce comedones (aka blocked pores).
A good rule of thumb is to buy make-up that does not list comedogenic substances as the first seven ingredients on their labels.
Over the years, researchers have compiled a ranking of comedogenic ingredients. The only thing is, it’s a whole bunch of complicated-sounding chemical terms so memorizing it is out of the question.
But with the internet, it’s as easy as uploading the ingredient list and reading the results. Innovative websites such as www.cosdna.com and www.incidecoder.com are handy when you’re browsing for products to buy.
Reading the ingredient list doesn’t just help you know what products to avoid, it can also tell you what products to buy. A review of different studies show that using cosmetics with acne-fighting ingredients can help improve skin condition. This includes oil-controlling substances such as nicotinamide or zinc acetate, anti-microbial substances such as phytosphingosine and ethyl acetate, and anti-inflammatory substances like resveratrol.
Note, however, that makeup is not a substitute for skin care. These acne-fighting cosmetics are only there to support the more powerful products used in acne regimens.
Do a patch test
People who suffer from acne typically have sensitive skin. Any irritation can immediately cause a reaction. Your skin can become itchy, red, or dry. Under these conditions, you are sorely tempted to relieve it by scratching, touching, or rubbing. And this only makes things worse.
That’s why reputable acne resources will always tell you to go for gentler products. When you’re on the prowl for makeup, look for the ones that read “mild”, “gentle”, “hypoallergenic”, “non-drying”, “non-comedogenic”, or “does not clog pores”. Then go back to our first tip and check the ingredient list to make sure it’s legit.
But note that each person’s skin is different. What may work for one person may not work for you. So while those “best make-up for acne” lists can help narrow down your choices, take these suggestions with a grain of salt. The only way you’ll know if it’s right for you is if you try it out.
Whenever you’re thinking of getting a new makeup product, make it a habit to do a patch test first. Luckily, many stores have samples that are opened especially for testing. Put a small amount on the underside of your jaw and the inner part of your wrist and observe for at least 24 hours. If you see any redness, dryness, or itchiness, then leave it on the shelf.
Apply with your fingers
You may use the mildest, least irritating products, but if you aggressively blend it into your skin with rough bristles, expect pimples to continue popping out. That’s because acne isn’t just caused by what you put on your face, but how you put it on.
As early as the 70s, studies have already shown that rubbing, scratching, or applying pressure on your face exacerbates acne. Your skin needs TLC, and how you apply your makeup is the perfect time to show it some love.
You can do this by using your fingers instead of makeup-applying instruments. Fingers are much easier to clean and disinfect than brushes, sponges or poofs. Improperly cleaned instruments make prime real estate for bacteria. It’s also much easier to control how much pressure you apply when using fingers instead of other applicators.
To understand exactly how gentle you’re supposed to be, think of your skin as fine sand. Imagine trying to touch the sand without disturbing it. That’s how featherlight your touch should be.
Go bare as often as possible
Part of caring for your skin means giving it time to rest and breathe unhindered by products. If there is an opportunity for you to go a few layers less or better yet, none at all, take it.
Having a couple of close friends over? Skip the foundation. Going to an intimate family gathering? Leave out the contour. If you can remove at least one layer of product, that’s one less potential irritant to worry about.
But if your days typically require acne cover with makeup, then the least you can do is make sure your nights are strictly for rest and skincare. Giving your skin eight-ish makeup-less hours every day is the bare minimum (forgive the pun), so make sure to do it right!
Clean off all traces of product by using a mild cleanser and working through it gently with your fingers. Only then will you be able to give your skin the space to breathe freely and fully absorb your skincare products.
Be creative with your makeup
At its heart, makeup is an avenue for self-expression. Your skin condition may confine you to a certain type of product, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be fun! Makeup can be a way to cover up your blemishes and be creative at the same time.
Gone are the days when caking up your foundation was the only way to conceal a zit. Makeup artists all over the world have worked on clients with less-than-perfect skin and they can make it work. You can do the same with research and practice!
From using innovative products like color correctors, to drawing attention away from the skin with bold eyes and lips, to applying sheer layers of strategic products, there are many ways to get the look you want.
So take time in front of the mirror to experiment, and you’ll find a look that makes you feel bomb even when with your zits.
Conclusion
When you have acne, you often feel like you have no choice but to put on make-up. That feeling of being forced to do it can remove the joy that cosmetics can bring.
But by building a repertoire of acne-friendly products and creating habits that help minimize pimples, you realize that you do have a choice in the kind of makeup you wear and how you put it on. Without the guilt that makeup is perpetuating your skin condition, you feel safer to be creative and express yourself.
This content is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical advice.
Resources:
Mills, O. H., Jr, & Kligman, A. (1975). Acne mechanica. Archives of dermatology, 111(4), 481–483.
Dall'oglio, F., Tedeschi, A., Fabbrocini, G., Veraldi, S., Picardo, M., & Micali, G. (2015). Cosmetics for acne: indications and recommendations for an evidence-based approach. Giornale italiano di dermatologia e venereologia : organo ufficiale, Societa italiana di dermatologia e sifilografia, 150(1), 1–11.
Hayashi, N., Imori, M., Yanagisawa, M., Seto, Y., Nagata, O., & Kawashima, M. (2005). Make-up improves the quality of life of acne patients without aggravating acne eruptions during treatments. European journal of dermatology : EJD, 15(4), 284–287.
