What we put on our face has a significant effect on whether we develop pimples or not. From changing the pH to sloughing off dead skin cells, from absorbing oil to absorbing UV rays, there are many ways in which topically-applied products could change the environment of our skin.
There is one class that acne sufferers are told to avoid at all costs: comedogenic ingredients. Their name says a lot about why. Comedones are blocked pores that signal the start of pimples, and according to experimental studies, these ingredients can cause them.
The concept of comedogenicity
Comedogenicity as a concept has been around since the 1970s. A series of landmark studies conducted by Kligman and Mills gave birth to the concept of acne cosmetica, or acne lesions formed because of cosmetics being used by women at the time.
The early basis of comedogenicity involved applying products on rabbit ears and assessing, by eye and by microscope, the formation of blocked pores. However, when the ingredients tagged as “comedogenic” in rabbit ear assays were conducted on humans, not all the results were the same. Further, using different concentrations of an ingredient, testing it out on different parts of the human body, the frequency of using the product, and mixing it with other ingredients or vehicles in a formulation all have effects on whether or not a product blocks the pores.
So where does this leave us? If the grading system is dependent on so many factors, how can it help determine what products to use and what to leave on the shelf?
If you are currently using skincare or cosmetic products with pore-clogging ingredients and yet your skin remains clear and acne-free, then that is no reason to change it. There are many reasons why your skin may be able to tolerate comedogenic ingredients. As they say: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
But if you are currently suffering from acne, then comedogenic ratings can be a good guide on what products to avoid or buy. Go to your skincare and make-up shelf and turn over the products to read their ingredient list. If you see comedogenic substances high on that list, then that may be where your problem lies.
So how do you know what to look for?
Comedogenic ingredients
A good number of comedogenicity studies have been done since the birth of the concept. While these studies may have used different methods and protocols, there are some similarities in their findings. There are ingredients that consistently come out at the top of the comedogenic ratings lists across the years.
On that basis, these are some ingredients commonly used in skincare, cosmetics, and haircare that are repeat offenders in various comedogenicity trials.
- Isopropyl myristate
- Myristyl myristate
- Myristyl acetate
- Cocoa butter
- Coconut oil
- Lanolin acid
- Acetylated lanolin alcohol
- Oleyl alcohol
- Flaxseed or linseed oil
A couple of years ago, you would probably have to memorize this list and check every so often for new comedogenic studies, but it’s 2020 and we have websites for that. CosDNA and IncideCoder are some helpful websites to look at before you buy a new product. There are a lot of potential pore-cloggers used in formulations, so it can be difficult to find products that are absolutely devoid of them. Remember that the order by which ingredients appear on the label is regulated. Ingredients that appear at the top of the list are those that make up a larger bulk of the formulation. If you are comfortable, you can try out products that list comedogenic ingredients at the tail end of the list.
Another good way to avoid comedogenic ingredients is to look for products specifically labelled as “non-comedogenic” or “does not block pores”. This tells you that the product was formulated with sensitive, acne-prone skin in mind. That being said, it’s important to note that use of these labels are not regulated, particularly in over-the-counter products. It’s a good way to narrow down the rows and rows of skincare products out there, but before you swipe your card on it, make sure to read up or ask around. You can check out dermatology websites or even binge on social media videos by licensed dermatologists to get an idea of what might work for you. Better still, ask your dermatologist yourself!
Conclusion
While there has been controversy with the concept of comedogenicity, it is still useful in helping acne-prone people navigate the skincare aisles and pick something that has a good chance of keeping their skin blemish-free.
This content is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical advice.
Resources:
Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Marks, J. G., Jr, Shank, R. C., Slaga, T. J., Snyder, P. W., & Alan Andersen, F. (2010). Final report of the amended safety assessment of myristic acid and its salts and esters as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(4 Suppl), 162S–86S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581810374127
Draelos, Z. D., & DiNardo, J. C. (2006). A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 54(3), 507–512. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058
