Retinols and retinoids have long been making the rounds among skincare junkies--and for good reason! Famed for their anti-aging and skin-clarifying properties, it’s no wonder these have become top shelf products for many people all over the world.
Retinols and retinoids are often used interchangeably, but this is an oversimplification of their relationship. So if you want to maximize the effect of retinols and retinoids, you should have a basic idea of what these terms mean, and the subtle differences between them.
How are retinols and retinoids different?
Retinol refers to Vitamin A, the fat-soluble vitamin that plays an important role all throughout the body, including the eyes, the reproductive system, the immune system, and of course, the integumentary system. The chemical structure of retinol can be changed by different enzymatic processes. This results in many different derivatives of retinol, and the umbrella term used to refer to this large group of substances is “retinoids”.
You might ask, what’s the need to have so many versions of the same molecule? That would be like asking why you need several keys for one house. Each Vitamin A derivative binds to a specific retinoid receptor, thus initiating a specific response--much like how each key is fitted to its own lock, and the combination of the two opens its own door.
Most retinoid receptors in the skin cells engage with a Vitamin A derivative called retinoic acid. Skincare products are formulated using retinoids that, when administered on the skin, will eventually be converted into retinoic acid.
The main difference between skin products that are branded as “retinoids” and those that are branded as “retinols” is the ease by which they are converted into retinoic acid. Retinoids can easily reach that form, while retinols take a little longer to get there.
That’s all well and good, but what does that mean to the people who want to use these products?
Pros and cons of retinoids
Retinoids are much more potent because they come in a form that can easily be utilized by skin cells. This makes them ideal for use in pathogenic dermatological conditions including moderate to severe acne, actinic keratosis, melasma, ichthyosis disorders, among others. If you’ve been diagnosed with these types of skin issues before, you might be familiar with retinoids such as tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene.
You’ll also know that these products tend to have a higher chance of causing side effects. Skin irritation, redness, itching, and stinging can all occur upon using retinoids, particularly when used improperly. For this reason, these products undergo FDA approval before going on the market. These also require a doctor’s prescription to purchase.
If you want to try out retinoids, it is important to consult your dermatologist first if it is the right choice for you. They will also advise you on the proper use of products to minimize the negative side effects and maximize results.
Pros and cons of retinols
Products that contain retinols are less potent that those containing retinoids, but the upside is that they are generally more well-tolerated. These do not require FDA approval, and are incorporated into many over-the-counter skin care and cosmeceutical products. If you have healthy skin and would just like to improve its appearance, retinols are often enough to get you the results you need.
How are retinols and retinoids similar?
They both improve the appearance of skin.
When retinols and retinoids bind to their respective receptors within skin cells, they trigger changes that ultimately lead to better-looking skin. This includes increased turnover of dead skin cells, improvement in hyperpigmentation, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and repair of damage caused by environmental stressors. However, to get the benefits of Vitamin A and its derivatives, it is important to use them properly.
They both require sun protection.
Most topical retinol and retinoid formulations are inactivated by sun exposure. This is one key reason why dermatologists suggest incorporating these products in your night time routine instead of your daytime routine. Vitamin A derivatives also tend to make the skin more sensitive, so it is crucial that users apply a variety of sun protection measures. This includes administration of sunscreen, wearing hats, and staying in the shade.
They both need to be used properly to avoid side effects.
The popularity of retinols and retinoids may make people think that it’s something they can buy and put on without needing to research about it. But even retinols, which are generally more well-tolerated, can cause irritation if used the wrong way.
It is best to start with products that contain low dosages first. After applying once, allow a week or a few days before the next application, and gradually build up to everyday use if your skin tolerates it well. For prescription retinoids, consulting your doctor is the best way to know what product to buy and how often to put it on.
It is also to consider how the retinol and retinoids react with your other skincare products. Generally, it is best to use mild, non-irritating products to avoid exacerbating the sensitivity caused by Vitamin A derivatives.
This content is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical advice.
Resources:
https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/anti-aging/retinoid-retinol
https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids
Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
Zasada, M., & Budzisz, E. (2019). Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy dermatologii i alergologii, 36(4), 392–397. https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2019.87443
