Acne is a skin disorder that has affected millions of people everyday from time immemorial. For the last few decades, scientists and medical professionals have learned more and more about the disease, its causes, and its long-term effects. This knowledge has led to a variety of treatments, the efficacy of which has been proven not just by scientific evidence, but by anecdotal evidence in the field.
Given all this, you would think that the multitudes of be-pimpled people the world over would be using this hard-earned knowledge to prevent, or at least minimize, the occurrence of acne. But you thought wrong.
For such a common skin disease, acne is plagued by a wide variety of misconceptions about how and why it happens--and consequently, what should be done to avoid it. In fact, some of the habits we form in the hopes of improving the condition achieve the exact opposite.
Here are some things people often do that inadvertently worsen a breakout.
Excessively drying out the skin.
First things first: overly diligent sebaceous glands have been implicated in the pathogenesis of acne. Oil can clog up the pores, which will result in blackheads, whiteheads, or pimples. It would then make sense to dry out the skin...right?
To an extent, yes. But the saying “too much of a good thing is bad” rings true in this situation. There is a reason why dermatologists advocate for the use of non-comedogenic moisturizers and avoid prescribing harsh astringent products.
Sebum, for all its bad rep, protects the integrity of skin. Without it, you are more prone to irritation, sunburn, and in extreme cases, breakage. Drying out the skin can also cause your body to overcompensate with more sebum, defeating your original purpose.
Scrubbing the skin clean.
While it’s true that blocked pores are the beginnings of acne, trying to scrub those blockages away is the wrong way to go about it.
Exfoliation does have a place in acne therapy, but most of the time, it involves well-spaced chemical exfoliation sessions followed by proper moisturization and sun protection. Physical exfoliation, especially without the supervision of a dermatologist, is likely to do more harm than good. You can be using it too intensely, too often, or in combination with chemical exfoliants in your skincare routine, leading to excessive skin thinning, sensitivity, and damage. So lay off rubbing your face with towels, brushes, or microbeads for now.
Instead of whipping your skin into shape, it’s best to give it some TLC. Use gentle motions whenever you touch acne-plagued areas of your body. And if you want to get rid of the dead skin cells accumulating in your pores, look for over-the-counter chemical exfoliants and follow the proper frequency and aftercare required. Dermatologists may prescribe medical-grade exfoliants and exfoliating procedures that are done in the clinics.
Popping pimples.
Is there anything nearly as satisfying as popping a ripe, white-headed pimple? As tempting as it may be, this habit may be preventing your skin from clearing up.
Within a ripe zit is bacteria and the white blood cells your body sends to fight it. As more of these courageous soldiers die in battle, more pus is produced. All the carnage is contained within a small space. The pressure builds up and your skin rises into a characteristic bump.
When you pop that zit, the bacteria and pus could spread not just on the surface of the skin, but underneath it as well. The bump might be gone, but the bacteria may have spread further, leading to more angry red pimples.
Covering up acne using the wrong products.
There’s no shame in using make-up to cover up blemishes. If it helps you express yourself and gives you that extra oomph of confidence, then go for it! But some cosmetics, though successful at giving you the facade of clear skin, strengthens the need for that illusion by causing more breakouts.
The easiest way to minimize acne while still covering it up is to look for make-up with the labels “non-comedogenic” or “does not block pores”. These formulations are specially designed with acne-prone people in mind. They’ve excluded the ingredients known to accumulate in our pores and cause blackheads, whiteheads, and zits.
In fact, everything you put on your skin should have these labels. Whether it’s skincare or cosmetics, non-comedogenic is the magic word.
Switching between acne products.
There is often a cycle that acne-prone people fall into: Have a bad breakout. Look for new products that could help. Fixate on a product based on amazing before-and-after pictures or rave reviews. Buy the product. Excitedly use it for 1-2 weeks. Feel frustrated when there are no signs of improvement. Repeat cycle.
The truth is, acne is a long game. Any skincare product that promises instantaneous clear skin (i.e. a month or less) is a sham. You need to be in it for the long haul--we’re talking at least half a year.
Even the products that dermatologists prescribe can take up to 2 months of consistent use to produce noticeable improvement. Absolutely clear skin may take anywhere from 6 months to a couple of years depending on individual factors and the efficacy of the drug used.
Differences in age, skin type, genetics, acne severity, proneness to hyperpigmentation, skincare habits, and hormonal changes are just a few factors that can influence how quickly a product works for you. But more often than not, you’ll need to stick to a regimen for at least 2 months to make an informed decision of whether it works for you or not.
Note, however, lingering pain, redness, and itchiness are danger signs that mean you should stop immediately. Double check if you’re using the product properly and doing the proper aftercare for your skin. Otherwise, you may be suffering from a reaction. See a dermatologist if the condition gets worse even after you stop using the product.
Conclusion
Remember that skin care is not just about what you put on your skin, but how you handle it. There are many habits that we inadvertently do which are based on an outdated understanding of acne. By knowing what you do that makes your acne worse, you can learn to correct it--and this may just be the key to getting the clear skin you’ve always dreamed of.
This content is for general information only and is not a substitute for medical advice.
Resources:
Goodman, G. Cleansing and Moisturizing in Acne Patients. AM J Clin Dermatol 10, 1–6 (2009). https://doi.org/10.2165/0128071-200910001-00001
https://www.acne.org/how-exfoliation-helps-with-acne.html
InformedHealth.org [Internet]. Cologne, Germany: Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care (IQWiG); 2006-. Skin care for acne-prone skin. 2013 Jan 16 [Updated 2019 Sep 26]. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK279208/
